"Na szlaku"
Z Rycerzowej na Słowację

19.07.1999 – wrzesień 1999

Jakże mnie uradowała informacja, że wreszcie mamy turystyczne przejścia na granicy słowackiej! Może jeszcze nie we wszystkich potrzebnych miejscach, ale są! Od razu postanowiłem wykorzystać to udogodnienie i wybrałem się z przyjaciółmi na wycieczkę do Vychylovki w Kysucach.

Dzięki przewodnikowi „Grupa Wielkiej Raczy” (nr 10 w serii „Polskie Góry”) Stanisława Figla i Piotra Krzywdy nie mieliśmy kłopotu z wędrówką po słowackich szlakach, no i przede wszystkim można było o nich przeczytać po polsku, co znacznie ułatwiało sprawę. Odwiedziliśmy skansen kisucki, przejechaliśmy się kolejką wąskotorową słynną ze swej „zwrotowej” trasy (pokonuje wysokości jadąc raz w przód, raz w tył – podobny system jest dopiero gdzieś w Ameryce Południowej!), zjedliśmy obiadek w skansenowej karczmie, spojrzeliśmy na orawską stronę od przełęczy nad Demanową i wróciliśmy do Polski. Piękna wycieczka! A na dodatek spanie w bacówce na Rycerzowej i tony czarnych jagód – palce lizać! I przy tej wycieczce właśnie spostrzegłem problem oczywisty:

Każdy z wytrawnych turystów potrafi docenić i wykorzystać nową sytuację na szlakach tego rejonu. Dawniej słowacki szlak graniczny (znaczony niebiesko) był dostępny po uzyskaniu specjalnego zezwolenia w Straży Granicznej. Nie było specjalnych kłopotów z jego uzyskaniem, ale zawsze zajmowało to trochę czasu i energii. Teraz nie ma przeszkód, by przekroczyć granicę na przełęczy Przysłop pod Rycerzową i dalej już wędrować legalnie słowackim szlakiem. Jedynym warunkiem jest posiadanie paszportu. Można iść w kierunku Pilska przez Oszus i Krawców Wierch (aczkolwiek nie ma legalnej możliwości przejścia tam granicy do polskiego schroniska, co chyba jest jakimś zaniedbaniem – miejmy nadzieję, że strażnicy będą wyrozumiali); można też udać się na zachód  na Wielką Raczę niebieskim szlakiem słowackim, który w odróżnieniu od polskiego czerwonego wiedzie ściśle granicą. No ale oczywistym celem zawsze będzie dla nas Vychylovka z jej atrakcjami. Tyle możliwości i…klops!

Obecnie na przełęcz Przysłop można dotrzeć wyłącznie zielonym szlakiem z Soblówki. Około 300m podejścia. I nic w tym strasznego, góry wszak składają się z podejść i zejść i za to je lubimy, ale… Nie każdy jednak stamtąd zaczyna swą trasę. Naturalnym noclegiem jest przecież schronisko na Rycerzowej (ściślej pod Rycerzową, a dokładniej pod przełęczą Halną, za to na Hali Rycerzowej) – czy to jako baza weekendowa, czy jako element dłuższej wędrówki. Jest ono położone około 200m powyżej przełęczy Przysłop – około pół godziny marszu. Niestety! Zgodnie z prawem powinno się stamtąd… zejść do Soblówki jednym ze szlaków (czarnym bądź żółtym) – 500m zejścia! –  i dopiero potem zielonym do góry. Razem około 2-2,5 godziny! Absurd!

Rozwiązanie nasuwa się samo. Krótki dwukilometrowy szlak od schroniska na Rycerzowej na przełęcz Przysłop. Na przykład jako przedłużenie żółtego szlaku z Trzech Kopców. I taka ścieżka już w terenie istnieje! Wiedzie od schroniska na wschód, w dół hali, mijając opuszczoną owczarnię i niezbyt wyraźnym grzbiecikiem wchodzi w las, gdzie szybko skręca w trawers wschodnich stoków Wielkiej Rycerzowej. Piękny las, stare drzewa, potoczki spływające z szumem w dół. Po pół godzinie można dotrzeć na przełęcz, która zresztą sama w sobie jest warta spaceru, zwłaszcza po południu, gdy słońce modeluje cieniami widoki kisuckich szczytów.

Podsumowanie: Nie trzeba budować ścieżki, bo ona istnieje. Dwa kilometry szlaku, nic tylko znakować – ile to może zająć – pół dnia? Koszt prawie żaden, a rezultat wyśmienity! No i przede wszystkim jaka korzyść dla turystów! I tu ukłon w stronę Oddziału Żywieckiego PTTK oraz KTG. Czy to jest możliwe jeszcze w tym roku? Warto o to powalczyć!


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